Friday 16 September 2011

Rising Star ? Emma Powell | Rock Climbing UK

Emma PowellEmma Powell, Aged 10. (11 in December) is a rising star, and a name to keep your eyes and ears open for.

I caught up with?Emma and her Dad Phil for an interview?at the Harrogate?Climbing Centre.

If you climb at any of the walls around Leeds and York you will have probably seen this extremely talented young climber in action.

Even at this tender age she ?has a very impressive resume.

  • She is ranked number 1 in Yorkshire in the 11-13yrs old girls.
  • Won numerous local comps inc, The Battle of Britain.
  • 2nd in Boulder Leeds Competition.
  • 3rd in 16 and under at Citybloc
  • Won the Top Rope, Bouldering and Speed Climbing at Harrogate.
  • Won?The Depots kids summer comp 2 years running and a few more.
  • 24th at her 1st time in the brycs.

Emma PowellDuring my hour there taking photographs, I watched Emma dance her way up F6a ? F6c leads and cleanly top rope a stiff looking F7a. Before a quick rest and straight into the bouldering wall. It is clear to see Emma really enjoys her lead climbing, but when bouldering is mentioned, an even bigger smile appears.

Emma sent plenty of the problems in the boulder wall starting on V2-V4 ?making them look easy she finished the session by working a horizontal roof at V6. Very impressive indeed!

Emma, How long have you been climbing?

3 1/2 years.

How did you start?

When my dad started climbing again, I started going bouldering with him and wanted to do more and more.

What is your favourite type of climbing?

I prefer bouldering and sport than trad, but am going to try winter soon.

What have been your hardest climbs outside?

Fluted columns at Almscliffe was my 1st lead on trad.

I flashed ?Roof Of The World? at Caley.

I also flashed Tiger wall at Earl Crag.

What have been your hardest climbs?Indoors?

I lead f6c and top rope f7b+.

Do you have a favourite crag?

Yes, it?s Almscliffe.

Who inspires you to climb?

Sasha Digiulian, Lucy Creamer and Chris?Sharma.

How do you train?

I climb in the Harrogate Wall Academy, and climb with Dad on and our Home Wall. I also have??1-1?s with Team GB ?Boulderer,?Dave Barrans.

Are you sponsored?

Not yet but would like to be. (La Sportiva ? Are you listening? )

Do you have interests in other sports?

I mainly climb and don?t do other sports apart from at school.

Is your dad a pushy dad? Does he make you train when you don?t feel like it?

Dad?s not pushy, but has done the majority of my training and shown me the other types of climbing.

He does encourage me and makes sure I am training properly, but he also knows when I need to take a rest and let my body recover.

Are you going to be a better climber than your dad?

Better than my dad ? Hopefully! Dad?s a powerful climber, especially at tooling and burly, thuggy routes, but I?m better at more techy balance based ones.

Has climbing or training for competitions got in the way of school or doing homework?

No climbing hasn?t affected school, but I would prefer to climb. No one likes doing homework.

What are your ambitions in climbing?

I want to be in the British team and at the olympics if it?s accepted in 2020.

Emma Powell and Phil PowellWhile Emma was making short work of a lead I got a chance to talk to Dad.

I asked for Phil?s opinion on a questions that is?often asked to parents.

Are you worried about the stress climbing places on a young developing body?

Yes it?s stressful with Emma?s training as it?s a fine line between training and over training.

Her growth plates are so fragile that it?s important to make sure she has enough rest and doesn?t do finger board training, etc.

We mix it up by doing circuits, easy problems only bouldering, tooling and top roping outside.

I want her to be an all round climber hence the introduction into trad, tooling and this year winter.

Can you offer any advice to other parents wanting their children to develop into top climbers?

My advice is to keep it fun, at her age that?s important so it doesn?t become a chore and support them through it and if they have the talent for it encourage it as these are our countries future climbers.

Where do you like to climb Phil?

It varies through what I do. Sometimes it?s a manky quarry when I?m tooling or caley bouldering to things like little Chamonix at Shepherds to Ben Nevis.

Where do you see Emma in the next 12 months?

I?d like to see Emma in 12 months still enjoying?her climbing?and pushing her grades.

She should be eligible for the youth team trials which I know she wants to be in and still pushing me to try and keep one step ahead of her.

We at RCUK wish Emma every success in the future.

Written by Rob Lonsdale

Self confessed adrenaline junkie, Rob can be found bouldering and sport climbing in the summer, then ice climbing in the winter. When he?s not doing those he spends his time mountain biking, snowboarding and on occasion riding motocross. Check out Rob's blog

See all posts by Rob Lonsdale.

Source: http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk/rising-star-emma-powell/

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